Traveling Ancient Roads in New Mexico (or Our Urination Vacation) Part 2: All Roads Lead to Chaco Canyon

Besides finding the perfect book on rock art at Chaco Culture National Historic Site, M and I were blessed with the most random animal sightings on this trip. While walking to the breakfasty-awesomeness that is the Happy Belly Deli, we heard the craziest squawking in the air.

just barely visible from upper left diagonally down to
lower right.... hundreds of geese flying south for winter

The drive from TorC to Chaco was long, but interesting. Lots of music was listened to, lots of places found on the map, a quick detour into Albuquerque for Indian food, and discussion of the new spaceport in New Mexico.


My view for the whole ride... looking good, M!

As we entered the park (after a long and washboarded road off the highway), we saw a sign for elk. I made some smart-ass comment about always seeing Watch for Animal signs but never seeing the animals. Just as the words left my mouth, I spotted not 1, not 2, but 7 elk about 60 yards away! Big tall antlered males and cow-looking females. I'm pretty sure M got to hear me say in my most baby-talk voice how I loved the cute little elk (and to his credit, he still loves me). Ok, so I did get a photo of the 7 cute little big-antlered elk but it looks like every other tourists' animal photos; the kind where you show people and have to back it up with "see? right there? I swear that brown bump is an elk butt!"

After hitting the visitor center for our park passport stamps, we found the perfect campsite and set up shop. I'm typically a low-key car camper or backpacker.... tiny stove, tiny tent, no pillow. M is a bit more luxurious. We packed my feather bed, two big sleeping pads, several pillows, Coleman two-burner stove, and awesome food. We were set to hit the loop road that takes visitors by 8+ great houses that are about 1,000 years old.

Our sweet-ass campsite set-up - M's photo



Exuding excitement! Seriously, I was in nerdy archaeology
and photography heaven! (M's photo)

I quickly discovered that I was traveling with Ansel Adams....

M's photo - the clouds rock!

M's photo - but the blue sky rocks hard too!

M's photo - Checking out 1,000 year-old
masonry work as the sun goes down

We made it to two Great Houses, walking all around and photo-documenting every inch, before we lost the sun and had to head back to camp. Once the sun went down, my southern-ass began to freeze. I had 3 layers, gloves and a hat, and STILL was cold! We had forgotten firewood so there was no fire to keep warm by. We ate a quick meal and hit the tent, snuggling down in our sleeping bags.

In the middle of the night, I was pulled from sleep by an odd sound that I hadn't heard in years.... Coyotes! Click here for random video of coyote sounds. (Lennox was very interested in my computer as it suddenly began speaking coyote to him). Coyotes are such a wonderful part of any desert camping experience. I can't believe that in Texas people hunt them for sport and the state kills them as nuisance wildlife.

Another amazing thing about camping at Chaco? The un-freaking-believable night sky! I got up to pee in the middle of the night. Stepping outside the tent, I looked up and stopped dead in my tracks. I swear I reached up to try and touch the stars, they were so bright and so close!

[Totally dorky side note: most of Chaco's Great Houses were built in relation to the stars and the movements of the sun. If my night sky were this gorgeous, I would do the same!]

A not-so-amazing thing about camping at Chaco? At some point in the night, M heard something walking through our campsite. He says it sounded like human footsteps and there was a trail connecting several tent sites together. That's normal and a totally cool camping thing... but me finding a large puddle of urine not 10 yards from our tent and M realizing that it was the guy he heard walking in the middle of the night? not cool. I'm hoping that the dude was simply walking down the trail away from his tent and found a great bush to relieve himself by, not realizing that he was actually in our tent site.



Anyone who has ever camped knows how horribly cold it is in the morning when your need for coffee (or a toilet) overrides your need to stay in your warm bag. Anyone who's camped with me knows that I will bargain almost anything for YOU to make the coffee and let me stay in my bag.

making my own coffee... M's photo

The good thing about the desert is it'll warm up quickly once the sun rises. We had breakfast and hit the trail - Pueblo Alto Trail leading up out of the canyon onto the plateau and offering great views!

M's photo - me climbing up a crack in the rock wall to get up
out of the canyon and onto the plateau

Fantastic snacktime view of Pueblo Bonito, the most visited site at Chaco

M getting his own shots of Pueblo Bonito - love the brilliant yellow
cottonwoods lining the creek down below!

Continuing the trail along the edge of the canyon, we passed over one of the many ancient roads leading out of the canyon to the north.

Chaco Road steps carved into the cliff edge carried
millions of humans and tons of trade-goods to
present-day Colorado and Utah - M's photo

Our trail was a bit smaller, and the steps were
a bit rougher. The upside is that I love
my ass in this photo... it looks pretty good!

ok, stop looking at my ass

Goofing around on the trail - definitely a great part
of hiking! Learning to use the continuous shutter
on my camera makes it even better!



black-on-white pottery sherd... holding a 1,000 year
old lithic leftover in my hand

Somewhere along the trail, my spidey-senses began tingling and I spotted this! After examining it, we hid it under a rock right where we found it. [Never take artifacts back to the rangers. Leave it where you found it, in situ, for nature to reclaim or another hiker to 'discover'.]



A ways on down the trail, still along the cliff edge, we came across another Great House down below. As I stood there focusing my lens to get a birds-eye shot, I realized that one of the NPS masonry workers was PEEING. He had his back to the wall, which meant he was facing me, and after furtive glances to the left and the right, let loose. Even with my awesome zoom lens, I couldn't spot his little manhood (thankyoubabyjesus). The best part of it was after he zipped up, he happened to look up my way. So I waved....

After 6 miles up on the plateau, we made our way down the rock crack back to our car.


Sorry mom but I have to post all afraid-of-heights
photos. Down below is another Great House, and just up
the road is our car. - M's photo

We headed to the visitor center to watch the park's video, play with some antelope ground squirrels, and then back to camp to make dinner. We had an amazing dinner - brown rice with bell peppers, mushrooms, and broccoli. Definitely better than my pbj that I usually eat while camping.

The chef and his work space

Oh! and while we were making dinner, I spotted our other neighbor (not Midnight Pee Man) with his back to the parking lot and the rest of the tent sites, PEEING onto a bush behind his tent. Men have no shame! (For those of you counting, this makes the 3rd man in two days to whip it out in the wild and urinate in my vicinity)

See you in Part 3 when we'll conclude our Chaco adventure and take a look back at things we learned... besides the fact that men will pee whenever, wherever. Whatever....

Traveling Ancient Roads in New Mexico (or Our Urination Vacation) Part 1: Classic 1950s Chic

As much as I've traveled in my life, I've come across some nerve-wracking experiences; none as truly nerve-inducing as traveling with someone else for the very first time. Questions ranging from "will we get on each others nerves after a constant 4 days together?" and "will my need to control the radio on road trips ruin our relationship?" to "OMG, can I get away with a murder if forced to go to Branson, or will a jury be sympathetic?" start to pop into my head. Well, last month, my boyfriend M and I went on our very first road trip together. (Don't worry, he's still alive, I swear.)

With only 2 days to plan our trip, we had decided on a road trip to Chaco Culture National Historic Site. Chaco has been on my life-list, and M's life-list, ever since I first heard about it. I immediately began planning; our hikes, our food, our route; our playlist. We originally decided to try and take in a few sites up near Santa Fe, as well as the Gila Wilderness, until we realized that this would become a very long week trip and I only had 4 days. One of the most important things I've learned while traveling the world is you MUST be flexible, so we settled on the interstate over backroads, and speed over winding mountain roads. (That "avoid interstate routes" option on a GPS is one of my favorite things.) As we were discussing camping options on the way up to Chaco, M mentioned that Truth or Consequences had some hot springs. Hot springs?! Yes sir, I am interested in that!

I found a hot springs' adjacent motel in TorC for the same price as a boring highway motel. TorC's hot springs district is "historic", which can sometimes mean shitty, old, decrepit, or non-existent. Fortunately for these two travelers, we have open minds and adventurous spirits! Our motel, described on their website as a "classically charming 1950s motor lodge", was the perfect thing for us. It had been remodeled and reopened by two gentlemen with unique style and fabulous taste.

Let me just set the scene... We arrive in TorC after dark, following some not-so-great directions to the motel, and park at the front entrance gates. Walking into the courtyard, we were quickly plunged into darkness. There were no outdoor lights on and only a small amount of light could be seen from behind a few curtains. I guess I should mention that the two fabulous owners had emailed me saying that if we arrived after 6pm not to worry about going to the main office. We would find our key in the open door of our room #8, titled "The Morning Glory Room". (Bone-chilling flashbacks to scenes from Hostel or Wrong Turn began playing in my mind. Every person watching a movie version of this trip would be screaming at the screen "don't go in there!")

The room numbers were all but impossible to read in the dark so there I am, walking up to each door and searching for a room number by the light of my phone! I found that most of the rooms were not only vacant, but the doors were open. M was not happy with me as I entered each one to see if it was ours. After a few minutes of searching, we finally found our room; door open, key on table, lights out. M swept the room like an FBI agent, opening each door and peering around corners, before he finally settled down and we turned on the lights. The minute the lights were on, I was in love with the place!


Super-cute homemade pillowcase reused as a curtain



painted trim on wooden mirror - kudos on
the wall color too!



Hot springs tub big enough to hold a small
swingers party... or just me and M.



My favorite part.... petroglyphs drawn
into the bedroom wall!



Wondering what to do with all those pesky wine bottles left
behind when guests check out? Make a garden wall!



Fabulously friendly cat who sat with me for coffee in the morning

After an interesting night's sleep (the hot springs had a narcotic amount of lithium in them and we passed out immediately after our soak, with the bed spinning and a glorious sinking-into-the-mattress feeling), we got up and walked over to the local breakfast spot....


not our car... but it is M's photo so no stealing!

 ... and then on to a very funky weird packed used bookstore. I've been looking for a lawyers' bookcase for years and now I know where they've all ended up - at this bookstore! Bookcases were haphazardly stacked on top of each other to the ceiling with no concern for gravity. Each room of this house was a different topic and once I found the travel room and the archaeology room, I was hooked! In the end, I found the companion book to my copy of an archaeological record of rock art in New Mexico, with whole sections dedicated to Chaco.

Maybe its the magical waters of TorC, or some kind of New Mexican vortex, but finding that book would prove to be the perfect beginning to the drive to Chaco.

The Inner Secrets of Tamales

Last month I went back to Houston for a friend's wedding and to visit my family. While I was there, mom and I decided to try tamale-making for a second time. I've been perfecting the art of tamales here in El P with my best friend A. Mom has only made tamales one other time and we deemed it a 'learning experience".

Now I wanted to try some new recipes because I've been asked to give a cooking class for the Vegetarian Society of El Paso focusing on vegan tamales. Some of you might be thinking "what the F--- are vegan tamales!?" while others may be wondering "what the F are tamales?!" Tamales are amazing Latin American comfort foods! Anything you desire can be mixed with cornmeal and wrapped in a corn husk (recycling!) for steaming. I didn't truly understand the desire for tamales until I was almost 30, but for the last 4 years I've been a tamale-eating machine. I've even bought tamales out of the trunk of an old Mexican lady's car in a supermarket parking lot in Joshua Tree, CA. True Story...

This is my chosen tamale-making guide. I love it!

So I decided that I should document the process along the way to help me with my cooking class this coming spring... and if I can kill 2 birds by also blogging about it, rock on!




First you need to let the cornhusks soak for a bit, say 30 minutes. Don't buy cornhusks from your local English-speaking grocery. Head over to the nearest Spanish-speaking market and pick up all your ingredients.






Cooking our ingredients...



Roasting some green chiles...





Most recipes will call for lard but I'm using Crisco to keep these guys vegan.  Ask me sometime about my mother dropping this huge heavy Crisco can on my little girl toes. Only one nail came off and I forgave her once I was able to walk without a limp again. I relive this moment every time I pick up a Crisco can. :-) Hi mom!

Now I forgot to take a picture of the masa we were using. Masa is the cornmeal used for all tamales. Again, Spanish-speaking grocery (la tienda), not English-speaking grocery. I guess you could make your masa from scratch but really... what decade is this?! I'm cool with store-bought masa.


Mix the veggies and chopped green
chiles, simmer and let cool

Whipped shortening looks like
whipped cream but tastes terrible!



You'll also need a large steamer for steaming - in El P we use A's big turkey roaster. It is perfect! Alas, in Houston we had to create our own thing. Introducing the recycled tamale steamer! We needed to make a space between the water at the bottom of the pan and our little roaster thing (not seen).



Nothing says "Texas" like a football
Dr Pepper can... and nothing says "Kristi"
like a Pepsi can.



 Alright, now we assemble the tamales...

Spreading masa onto open corn husk. I use a spatula
because they're bendy.

 

Cheese or vegan cheese - it goes on top of your veggies

 

 

There are many ways to roll but I chose this one for my
vegan tamales. Even added a little bow to hold the thing closed.

 

And if a bow doesn't work, say Fuck It! and
use ye ole traditional rubber bands.

Here's mom rolling her tamales. Did I mention that this
is a group activity? Making tamales solo would require way
too much wine and boredom. Get some friends or relatives
and have a tamale-making day!

Except for grandma.. grandmas doesn't do
tamales. She's never even had a tamale. In her
defense, she's German. I bet there's a
saurkraut tamale out there somewhere.

 

Stand the tamales upright in the steamer
so they don't spill out...

The cans are doing their job!

 We also decided to try some dessert tamales... I've got dark chocolate tamales in my freezer right now and they are amazing! However, on this day we tried pineapple for my dad who loves all things tropical.

We followed the recipe but the filling was very soupy.
On the bright side, it was pretty good to eat out of the bowl!

We decided to pour the tamale soup into a pie dish and bake
it like cornbread. It was super tasty! Even grandma tried it.

 

Once your tamales are out of the steamer (1 hr-ish), bag them up in freezer bags and freeze them overnight. They will last a very long time in the freezer and are great for work lunches. Just be sure to label the bags as frozen tamales offer no secrets to their contents.

 

Labeling is important!

 

FYI - Did you know that Tamale is also a town in Ghana? The internet is amazing!

 

For more info on tamales, or to really mess with some facts, visit their Wikipedia page

 

8 Superbly Easy Ways to Go Green... in Case You Weren't Already

So "green" has been around for more than a decade now. I really think there is no excuse for not developing your environmental ethics. (um, before we go further, let's address the fact that I drive an SUV. Yes, I do drive an SUV. I also spent 7 years walking to work every day, carpooling to town/trailheads on weekends, plus I'm a park ranger. It doesn't get any greener than that.)

Let us begin...


1. Solar Mio The sun is free... until some capitalist pig figures out how to charge you for it. It'll happen...

So I don't ski... but I did share my free solar juice with
an Incan shaman who only spoke Quechua but had an iPod.
Small world....

This is a most awesome device. A portable solar panel that is lightweight enough to strap to my backpack as I trekked across the Inca Trail. I needed some power for my iPod and this was the perfect thing! Its also the perfect thing to keep a GPS juiced up all day in the desert as you hike along. I figure if I'm living in "Sun City" I may as well take advantage of all the free power.


2. The Solar Mio is awesome and lightweight but wouldn't charge my smartphone. So my dad presented me with the Fuse from Voltaic. This solar charger doesn't fuck around. It can charge my iPhone, GPS, iPod, some can even charge my computer (with an adapter). Its kinda large so I wouldn't take it backpacking, but it does travel with me frequently on car camping trips.

Let the sun shine...

Both solar chargers are permanently set out on my porch so they are always ready to go.


3. Another awesome thing about living in the desert besides free sun? Free laundry drying! As long as there isn't a dust storm, a clothes drying rack is the way to go for laundry day.

Not only can you buy one at almost any grocery or big box store, but they are cheap! In El Paso's arid environment, I can have dry clothes (unshrunk) in an hour. There's no electricity cost and no heat build-up that my air conditioner needs to fight against. Perfect!

If you don't wanna buy one, get creative. I once strung climbing rope between two trees in the backyard - using what I had on hand.


4. Freecycle.... you've heard of Craigslist and you've heard of recycling. Freecycle is the bad-ass bastard child of the two! People post their random crap (and non-crap) that they want to get rid of. Someone else reads that post and says "Hey! I could use that crap!" and off they go. I've given away christmas decorations and cds. I've gotten old VHS tapes and those big glass pickle jars.

Basically if you have a pile of buttons, wine corks, or carpet pieces - someone wants those. Its better than it ending up in the trash. You can find some seriously good stuff. Lots of freecycling baby clothes, unopened cans of food, furniture, etc. It rocks and you will rock if you sign up.


5. Yard sales, tag sales, garage sales.... call it what you want, I call it cheap and recycling! I've sold lots of stuff at these sales and I think all of my clothes as a baby and child came from someone's yard sale in Galveston.. Go mom!


6. Thrift stores - corporate garage sales. They rock and you can find the most amazing stuff at them. Instead of sporting that shirt that everyone can buy at their local Target or Neiman Marcus, go for a truly one-of-a-kind item. After all, you are one-of-a-kind!


7. Eat less meat and animal products. Seriously. The factory farming of animals not only uses up food crops that we could be eating but it also uses petroleum products in the shipping and maintaining of all of these animals... millions of tons of animals are shipped each week. (Suddenly my SUV isn't so bad, now is it?) I won't even mention cow farts and methane gas....

8. Grow your own food. Gardening is great for your health, your stress levels, your wallet, and the environment. Start with something small, like a windowsill Chia Herb Garden. My mom had one of these and they grew easily and abundantly.






Now, dear internet, its your turn. I want to hear about your easy, cheap, or DIY green ideas and actions. We can all learn from each other.